Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.